THE DIFFERENT TYPES OF ENGLISH SHOES
We take satisfaction in being able to educate our consumers on the whys and wherefores of Grandeur Man shoes and boots. When you speak with a member of our retail team at a Grandeur Man store, you will quickly learn that they are all informed and passionate about their respective fields.
LOAFER
Loafers have grown in popularity in recent years, thanks to their American roots and ties to the original moccasin. Loafers from Grandeur Man are the most casual style accessible.
- It can be made out of one piece of leather or two pieces, including the galosh and apron. A strap is present in both constructions.
- The last’s fit is critical around two primary points: the heel and the joint (widest part of the shoe)
- Penny (short strap stitched with a cut-out), Saddle (long strap stitched with a cut-out), Tassel, Unlined/Lined, Split Toe, Wing Cap, Long Wing, Butted / Hand Pulled Up Apron are some of the variations available.
OXFORD
The beautiful English Oxford is the most instantly recognized of all classic styles. It is thought to have been named by students at Oxford University, though it is almost clear that the style precedes this ‘naming’ even earlier. It is a formal style that dates back over two hundred years. The process of making an Oxford differs from that of making a Derby.
- The Vamp is sewn on the inside and outer quarters.
- Under the Quarters/Vamp/Facing, the tongue is sewn in individually.
- It’s also known as ‘Closed Lacing.
- Designed with a lower instep in mind.
- Variations: Penny (short strap stitched with a cut-out), Saddle (long strap stitched with a cut-out), Tassel, Unlined/Lined, Split Toe, Wing Cap, Long Wing, Butted / Hand Pulled Up Apron
DERBY
Derby shoes are perhaps the most adaptable of all shoe types, effortlessly crossing the gap between formal and casual wear. The most well-known variety is the Brogue Derby, which gained popularity after the advent of the full country Brogue, which was designed for practical usage in the fields. The construction of a Derby differs from that of an Oxford in terms of the order of operations.
- Quarters on both sides of the vamp are stitched to a tab point.
- Often referred to as ‘Open Lacing’
- The tongue is not a separate component and is sliced as part of the vamp.
- Suited to wider feet with higher insteps
- Variations: Whole Cut (Blucher), Apron with Split Toe (Norwegian), Apron, Country Full Brogue, Long Wing, Plain Front, Toe Cap, Formal Brogue, Spectator
MONK STRAP
This design was popularized in the 1920s and is said to have been devised by an alpine monk in the 15th century and worn throughout European monasteries. A Monk strap style has identical fitting features and construction to a Derby, which many people are unaware of. A Monk style might be thought of as a sort of “modern day” Derby. Monk straps (single and double buckle) are surprisingly comfortable on the foot, with open quarters and a whole cut vamp and tongue. Due to the lack of laces, they will not provide the same level of adjustment. The construction of a Monk follows a similar pattern to that of a Derby.
- Quarters on both sides of the vamp are stitched to a tab point.
- The tongue is not a separate component and is sliced as part of the vamp.
- It’s best for people with higher insteps, although it’s not always adjustable.
- Variations: Double Buckle, Single Buckle, Wing cap, Toe Cap, Plain Front, Country, Spectator
CHELSEA BOOT
The Chelsea boot has had a storied history that has seen it depicted in a variety of ways. The origin of the name is a point of contention, but these elastic-sided boots date from the mid-nineteenth century. Grandeur Man is able to make a variety of Chelsea boots, ranging from stylish and elegant to casual country styling, thanks to robust latest development. Grandeur Man creates some of the best Chelsea boots on the market today, thanks to expert pattern cutting and top-notch shoemaking.
- The term “blocking” refers to the process of ensuring that the leather lays correctly on the last and conforms to the customer’s foot.
- For added comfort and ease, the sides are elasticized.
- Smart to smart-casual collection with a variety of fitting possibilities
CHUKKA / DERBY BOOT
A Chukka boot is thought to have both a sporting and military history. A Chukka boot (also known as a Desert boot) is made up of three sections of exterior material: Inside Quarter, Outside Quarter, and Vamp, and has a low cut leg (but not quite above the ankle) and two to three eyelets. A Derby boot, on the other hand, is a completely lined, high leg, and overall more substantial boot with variations akin to a Derby shank.
- Often thought to be the most relaxing of all the types — Suede Chukka
- Derby boots with a high leg are tough and frequently the most durable boots.
- Variations: Chukka, Toe Cap, Apron, Full Brogue, Plain Front
- Quarters on both sides of the vamp are stitched to a tab point.
- The tongue is not a separate component and is sliced as part of the vamp.
- It’s best for people with higher insteps, although it’s not always adjustable.
- Variations: Double Buckle, Single Buckle, Wing cap, Toe Cap, Plain Front, Country, Spectator
DRIVING SHOE
The Italians made these soft, unstructured, and ultra-comfortable loafers / moccasins renowned in the 1960s. A car shoe or driving shoe will last you a long time if it is manufactured with care and by an experienced hand. They are most commonly worn throughout the summer months and come in a variety of vibrant colours and soft suedes.
- Extremely comfortable, like wearing a pair of slippers
- Can be worn as an alternative for a lightweight loafer.
- It comes in a range of colours and is ideal for the summer months.
